DIY Makeup Application for Portraits

Lately, I have heard a lot of questions in photography groups about where to find makeup artists, a reasonable amount to pay them and even questions asking tips on application. Before I was a photographer, I actually worked as a makeup artist. I usually give my clients the choice to apply it on their own, to have someone else do it for them or I offer to do it for them. When letting them apply it on their own, I always give some suggestions for the best looks for portraits. I have noticed that photographers are branching out with their creativity and sewing their own costumes, painting their own backdrops and even building their own props. This blog is for those that would like to do their own makeup artistry as well. 

I. Prepping the Face

One of the most important things in makeup artistry is preparing the face for makeup. If makeup is going to be applied over rough skin for example, the makeup will still look rough. Although that can be corrected with some skin smoothing in Photoshop, it is best to get it right in camera to create less work later on.

Make sure the skin is clean. I ask clients to arrive with a clean, freshly washed face. I ask them not to use products they are unfamiliar with to lessen any reddening that may occur due to skin allergies.

Exfoliate. I also ask them to exfoliate ahead of time. By exfoliating, it creates a smooth surface to work with and allows moisturizer to be absorbed into the skin properly. It helps clear out pores and removes dead skin from the face. I personally like manual exfoliating products such as Clinique's Seven Day Scrub and Philosophy's The Microdelivery Exfoliating Wash. I advise clients to steer clear of products like apricot scrubs that may have jagged apricot shells that often tear and irritate skin.

Moisturize. The skin should be soft and not dry so that the makeup products used will glide easily over the skin. I also suggest using a separate eye cream for the eye area. This will help any under eye concealer to go on nicely as well.

II. Foundation, Concealer, Bronzer, Highlighting

Apply a primer. A primer will create a smoother surface for the foundation to be applied on top of. It also keeps the foundation wearing longer. I personally love Smashbox's Foundation Primer products. They have primers made to cater toward different skin types. 

Choose a concealer. I use concealer over blemishes, any extra red areas, or over dark under eye areas. Use a concealer brush for application, apply the product at it's worst spot in a stipling fashion, then blend the product out in sweeping movements.

Choose a foundation. I suggest testing foundation color near the jaw line. Many people get redness near the t-zone area, so testing near the jaw line will usually guarantee a closer color match. First, determine what sort of coverage the client will need. Do they have next to perfect skin as it is? They may only need a light coverage foundation then. Do they have blotchy skin or blemishes to cover? They may need a  product with full or buildable coverage. Next, look for skin tone. Does the client have golden skin tone? Is it pink? Is it red? Is it neutral? Perhaps the client has redness they would like covered up. Once the skin tone is determined, choose a proper shade of that tone that will match the client best. Are they fair or are they dark? Once the foundation is chosen, apply the product with a foundation brush. Liquid foundations will require a wide, flat foundation brush and dry mineral foundations will require a round firm foundation brush with shorter bristles. Start application at the center of the face in the t-zone area and blend out.

Choose a bronzer. Find a color that is darker than the skin, but has similar tone. I often use bronzer to contour the face. I created a diagram below to use as an example. Different face shapes require somewhat different application, but this is a basic way to apply it in order to contour. Apply the bronzer like a "three." Using a bronzer brush, start at the upper hairline, sweep along the temple, along/ under the cheekbone, then under the jawline. For wider noses, I sometimes will even sweep some color along the sides of the nose to give it a thinner look. Where darker colors are applied, it gives a receding effect to the face, giving it more depth.

Choose a highlighter. Highlighters also come in different tones. Some are golden, while others are pink and some are even white. They are typically shimmery and very light in color. While dark colors create a receding effect, lighter colors do the opposite. Highlighting the face will pop certain features making them more dimensional and bringing them forth. I apply highlighter with a small angled face brush at the top of the cheekbone to round it. I also apply it lightly down the center of the nose, at the center of the forehead and the center of the chin. 

III. Eyes

There are several ways to apply eye makeup. The options are endless. I suggest starting simple and basic, then letting creativity go wild. Below I've demonstrated a classic way of wearing eye makeup that flatters most eye shapes using only four colors.

Choose a color palette. The point of makeup is to flatter one's natural features and help them pop more. Therefore when it comes to eye color, I typically refer to the color wheel. I look at eye color and find a color that will compliment it. That usually means finding a shade that is on the opposite spectrum on the color wheel. Brown eyes look best for example with shades of blue, plum, or violet, while blue eyes look best with corals, pinks and neutrals. Green eyes look best with pinks and plums, often mixed with neutrals. When choosing a shade, I also keep skin tone in mind and try and choose a color that will flatter that too.

Start with an eye base. An eye base keeps the eye shadow from creasing. It keeps the shadow wearing all day too, so that the trickle effect doesn't occur and it can be worn in heat without being sweat off as well. I prefer Mac's Paint Pots. They come in all shades, but I usually stick to neutral colors such as Painterly that will go with just about anything and brightens the eye nicely for shadow to be applied. I use a separate concealer brush for the eye base. I brush the product over the lid, then blend it up toward the brow. I also apply it under the lower lash line.

Apply the shadow. I have demonstrated a basic way of wearing shadow with only four colors, but again, the options are endless. With this technique, line up the four colors. One will be the lightest color, often shimmery and used as the highlighter. The second lightest will be used as the all over color and also may have some shimmer. The third color is typically matte and slightly darker, which I use a contouring color. The darkest one is also typically matte and I use it for the "drama color." 

Apply the all over color with a wide eye brush. I press the shadow over the lid, then blend the excess up toward the brow. Then I use my highlighter color under the arch of the brow to give it more "lift." I also apply it in the corner of the eye under the lower lash line to brighten and pull the viewer's eye in. Lastly, I apply the highlighter on the center of the lid to make the lid appear slightly larger and more dimensional.

I use a skinny, fluffy contour brush or a wide, angled contour brush for the contouring color. I sweep the color from the outside edge of the eye and in directly above the crease. If there is no crease, then create one for this technique. Blend, blend, blend. Matte colors work best for contour colors, as the mica in shimmery shadows will pop and bring forth, taking away from the receding effect that is being attempted in this demonstration.

The last, darkest color I use for a drama effect. Dark recedes, so I apply it at the edge of the eyelid, up into the outer corner of the crease, and in the outer corner of the lower lash line. I usually use a smaller brush when using this color for more control to gain precise placement, then I use a fluffy eye brush to blend it.

Apply eyeliner. I prefer an eyeliner that is applied with a brush for more control and pigment. A flat, angled brush is nice to work with. By moving the brush at different angles, it's easy to achieve a thin line, then fan into a wider line and finish with a little flair at the end. I sometimes will apply eyeliner to the inner rim of the lower lash line and tight line it up under the top lash line. When applying it to the lower lash line, ask the client to look up, pull down slightly on the skin under the eye and apply. When tight lining pull up on the lid and ask the client to look down while applying. This helps eliminate eye watering and blinking.

Apply mascara. I usually start out with a lash primer. I compare a lash primer to hair conditioner. Conditioner is applied to our hair to soften it and to protect it from the environment and other products we may apply to it. A lash primer does just that and also helps the mascara to wear longer. It also gives lashes a bit more thickness so that less coats of mascara need to be worn. Then choose a mascara that is best for the types of lashes the client has. Do they need thickening? Are they short and need lengthening? I personally love to add both for more drama. I love Christian Dior's Diorshow Mascara. The brush is fat and gives great thickness, while still lengthening each lash. For bottom lashes, I prefer Clinique's Bottom Lash Mascara Long- Wearing Formula. It has a small skinny brush that perfectly separates each lash and prevents lower lash smudging that can occur. False lashes are also a way to add more drama to the lash line. I prefer adding in single lashes for a more natural look, starting at the upper outer lash line and adding in more as needed. 

IV. Lips and Cheeks

When applying lipstick, I start with a lip liner. I suggest starting from the outer edges of the lips and lining them, then filling in the outer insides and blending inward, so that no defined line is visible. Next, apply the lip color all over, starting at the center and blending out. Lastly, use a gloss and dab onto the center of the lips for maximized shine.

When choosing a blush, find a color that matches the shade of the lips. Use an angled blush brush, pick up pigment and pat into the apples of the cheeks, then sweep back along the cheekbone, blending the color. The apples of the cheeks can be found when having the client smile. The part of the cheek that lifts and pouts forward is the apple of the cheek.

V. Photoshop

Another way of flattering facial features, or to emphasize the effects of makeup is through Photoshop. Color can be altered slightly via Curves, Hue/ Saturation, Color Balance or Selective Color. Areas can be darkened or lightened as well. I often dodge and burn areas to flatter my client's faces even more. I find features I really love and attempt to make those features stand out. Below are models I shot that applied their own makeup. I then used Photoshop to lighten, brighten and darken in some areas, to smooth skin and to pop some colors.

I hope you enjoyed this DIY tutorial.

~Robin